Sunday 12th April – Toughest Day!

Still in my adopted Tenzing group, and feeling rejuvenated I was ready to face the hard slog ahead. For the first half of the day, we were again treated to the beautiful mountain-hugging views, as we followed the glacial water through the hills.

The group naturally segregated into 3 groups, based on speed. At one particular ascent, I was treated to a Kodak moment. Blinky had become sandwiched between 2 groups of ponies on a bridge. For quite some time, the stubborn animals just refused to move. It was an unusual sight, as most of the herds of yaks and ponies we had seen, obediently moved along the trail carrying supplies.

It became common to hear “yak attack”, as a bumbling herd clattered down the steep rocky trail towards you. A brief but welcome break for the old feet!

“Yak attack!”

At our first tea break, I asked Bill for help in finding some sort of WC. The food hut had broken toilets (long drops) and so I was directed to a hillside where there was a little wooden shack (rustic little hut, which could have been helicoptered in from a Clint Eastwood Western). It was really not unpleasant - great views too!

Lunch stop revealed some unlucky trekkers, who had been hit by the dreaded diorreah. Some poor chaps complained of having to make 7 toilet stops already. On our trail that was not ideal.

Bowel movements were steadily starting to become a prominent topic of conversation. I was feeling ok, all apart from my coordination and logic (which some would argue was missing from the start). P handed me an iodine tablet at lunch, which I confidently put into my lemon tea, instead of my water bottle. I think the altitude had started to affect my brain?!

That afternoon, we had 3 Indiana Jones-style bridges to look forward to. I developed my own approach, using the rather traditional method of – ‘don’t look down!’.

Hell Hill
This was the toughest part of the day/trip, which I lovingly named Hell Hill. It was the end of the day, and energy levels were starting to flag. It became a real struggle for our diarrhoea crew, with a 900m ascent ahead of them – humour failure starts now.

The toughest part came with the relentless ascent, which was 2 and half hours of constant uphill winding trail. With the altitude starting to take effect, and the increasingly slower pace, many of us were quickly running out of water.

Following a final break, I set off with Milo and Kinsey. Kinsey and I exchanged usual knee-banter, whilst Milo set the pace. Not long into our walk, and it was clear that Milo was becoming increasingly sluggish, whilst swaying across the path. We made him stop, as we could see he was dehydrated. Unfortunately for him, we were all on our last dregs of water. Passing DC, Milo was able to take some of his water, and then luckily we found a water pipe coming out of the mountain. Putting on my “Mother” hat, I insisted that Milo take dyroloyte, which offered some hope.

Still struggling, we took a very slow final journey to the hostel and luckily came across a small hut in the forest selling water. The journey was slow, and I was really worried, as Milo’s energy seemed to fade with each step. We made it - Milo was prescribed bed, whilst I self-prescribed a much needed shower.

A simple shower trip became one of my comedy highlights. JB emerged from the shower having forgotten his towel. Using his t-shirt to cover his modesty, whilst keeping his rear against the wall he edged along the corridor. However, by successfully turning his rear away from me, he was giving the laundry girl a full view. After an embarrassing exchange of laughter he regained momentum shuffling off into the distance.

That night we were divided into camp Tenzing and Hilary, which was a shame but necessary as there were so many of us. The usual banter and card/perudo tournaments kept everyone amused, until passing-out time.

Saturday 11th April – Yeti Airways

As we made our way through the rather rustic “departure lounge” and greeted by the Otter, a couple of nervous flyers grew to a few nervous flyers, which ended up with most of us thinking, “is it too late to turn back!”. As a group there was plenty of nervous chatter. I fed my homeopathic wonder drug (mimulus) to a few nervous flyers, inc Blade who grew a bit of a taste for it.

Walking into the airport we were greeted by a line of rather modest check-in desks, each including a giant set of kitchen-style weighing scales. Through to the departure lounge, and we experienced our first taste of Himalayan pricing. A pack of hob knobs = £4 (they saw us coming!).





Standing next to the small green Yeti on the runway was the point at which it started to sink in. The banter was building to a nervous crescendo. Now or never!

There were 12 on our plane, including the air stewardess, who hunched over to walk down the mini-isle, handing out sweets and cotton wool. I think the sweets were a temporary distraction method (“umm yum sweet” rather than “oh my god I’m going to die”) and the cotton wool was there to drown out the sound of the engines, (and the wailing screams).



Jen and I were brave/stupid and sat at the front of the plane. Blade was next to us, and still smiling – mimulus starting to take effect. As the drone of the engine fired up, looking ahead Jen and I couldn’t help but laugh as we came face to face with “make the most of your time on earth” written on the back of BJ’s t-shirt – a poignant reminder of the adventure that lay ahead of us.



As the mountains started to close in, I remember looking over the pilot’s shoulders to be faced with Lukla’s midget runway. Not only was it a fraction of the size of a standard one, but it also happened to be perched on a mountainside. The smooth landing was a surprising relief.





Most of us were escorted to a teahouse, which was our temporary dumping ground while we waited for our kit to arrive. There were a couple of nervous trekkers, waiting on packs. It was at least 2 hours before everything landed. After an introduction to our team of guides, porters, body guards, chefs and ……. it was trek time.

As we walked through the cobbled streets of Lukla, a small town perched on the mountainside, it was rather surreal to pass Starbucks (Nepal-style). As we left Lukla for the start of our adventure, guides Bill, Nir and Polsan lead us through a prayer tunnel, lined with prayer wheels, spinning them clockwise as we went past.

This was our first official day trekking, and was by no means easy. The trail lead us down, round, up and down the hillsides beyond Lukla. The path was dotted with black and white prayer rocks. As if an obedient group of goats, we made sure to pass each one clockwise. The views were beautiful, and stretched out across the valley. It was hard to believe that we were still relatively low down, and with the ascent, our picture postcard backdrop was only going to get better!

Lunch stop was a small cabin perched on the Cliffside. At this point we witnessed the first ITN interviewing by Mark and Marcus. I said my bit…not sure if I was TV worthy….hair not looking great!

The final part of Day 1, and the trail lead us past more and more intricately carved prayer rocks painted in black and white. Polsan told me that the rocks were engraved with prayers, and are traditionally said as a chant.

Winding up to our teahouse stop, and we were greeted with smiling George and his camera who caught us struggling up the final steps. The hostel was such a pleasant surprise, with twin rooms (not mass dorm sleeping) and actual beds with mattresses (not stone floor). The best bit was discovering a sit-down WC, amazing! We happily over took the dining area that evening, and as the 80’s tracks filled the room, competitive games of cards and Perudo commenced.

With an early start, and the toughest day trekking ahead of us, most of us were lucky in getting a full 10 hours sleep.

Friday 10th April – Doha

Seven hours of on-flight entertainment/eating/drinking later and we were in Doha. A cramped shuffling through the arrivals lounge brought us to our duty-free haven, and where we would be spending the next 3 hours. After an unpleasant toilet experience we were all ready to go. A group reading sesh of G-Man and Toovey’s Tenzing Bible kept us duly amused/enlightened until the next leg.



The flight to Kathmandu was less lively, with most unconscious. A gentle murmur of snoring and heavy breathing filled the plane as we took the 5 hour flight. On arrival, we were greeted by a red brick building with it’s very own mahogany clad 1970’s arrivals lounge, followed by a bus draped in a Everest Test flyer made by Peace Nepal Treks. As celeb-trekkers we were then each presented with a leigh, made of real flowers. It was a pleasant surprise and lovely welcome to Nepal.

Driving through Kathmandu was an experience. I think I saw my life flash before me at least 6 times. As we indicated (toot horn) for our (toot horn) hotel (toot horn) it was rather surreal to leave behind the dusty, dirty streets in exchange for a smartly groomed hotel.

Our first night in Kathmandu - the beginning of our amazing adventure. For most of us (exc Hc) this also meant the start our temporary convert to vegetarian life. There is something rather amusing at watching a host of men tucking into veggie burgers!

"Veggie burgers all round..."

Thursday 9th April - Departure

A prompt gathering of pink and blue bods at Lords progressed with a sprinkling of camera action and posing for the press. Unfortunately we missed out on the media masses, who had opted for a different press call….their loss!

Being one of the Flight 2 Crew, I was lucky to have the afternoon in which to attempt a re-pack. I was certain that I could create some sort of miracle in shrinking my pack further.

The airport transfer later on went as expected. Brooksie was over optimistic with timing, meaning a dash for the bus, and a taxi to the Oval where Addison Lee took us the final leg to Heathrow.